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From Crickets and Mole, to Raicilla and Orange Wine
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Joseph Haecker
November 2, 2024
A Culinary Exploration in Tulum

Recently, I had the privilege of being invited by OG's in Tulum to attend the inaugural Festival Gastronómico Del Mole from October 31 to November 2, 2024. This festival was an extraordinary showcase of Mexican culinary artistry, especially centered around mole, one of Mexico's most iconic dishes. With a rich history and numerous regional variations, mole represents the vibrant culinary heritage of Mexico.

At OG's, a renowned dining establishment in Tulum known for its commitment to authentic Mexican cuisine, I indulged in an array of artisanal dishes prepared by some of the country’s top chefs. The atmosphere was electric, filled with food enthusiasts eager to experience the unique flavors of mole in its many forms.

Culinary Highlights

Each dish was a testament to the creativity and skill of the chefs involved, and my palate was treated to an explosion of textures and flavors. The balance of sweet and savory combinations throughout the meal left a lasting impression on me. Here are some standout dishes:

Huitlacoche Tetela + Colorado Mole Pumpkin Flower Garden

Chef David Corona - The OGS

Eggplant with White Mole - Stuffed Roasted Eggplant with Vegetable Machaca, White Mole + Garum de Quesillo

Chef Aleli Vicencio - Ramiro

Totoaba Wrapped in Leaf - Santa at Low Pressure + Green Mole with Quelites

Chef David Corona - The OGS

This dish was a marvel; the tender fish was beautifully complemented by the vibrant green mole. The richness of the mole and the freshness of the quelites created a harmony that lingered long after the last bite.


Barbacoa with Red Mole - Pit Barbacoa + Red Mole + Nopal Tostada + Dried Cherry Tomato + Lemon Olive

Chef Xavi Pérez Stone - Axiote

The barbacoa was nothing short of spectacular. The slow-cooked meat melted in my mouth, and the red mole added layers of flavor, while the nopal tostada offered a satisfying crunch that contrasted beautifully with the tender meat.


Ugly Chocolate Tortilla + Black Mole

Chef David Corona - The OGS

This dish was an unexpected delight. The rich, dark chocolate mole was the perfect balance of bitterness and sweetness, and the tortilla was a comforting vehicle for the bold flavors. It was a fitting end to an extraordinary meal.

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A Toast with Raicilla and Orange Wine

One of the most memorable moments came when I sat down for an insightful interview with Carlos Garcia, the fifth-generation distiller from Casa Tlalpuyec, a distillery renowned for its production of Raicilla. This artisanal spirit, often compared to tequila and mezcal, is crafted from the agave plant and has deep roots in the highlands of Mascota, Jalisco. Unlike tequila, which is steamed, Raicilla is roasted like mezcal, imparting a distinct flavor profile that reflects its regional origin. Carlos shared fascinating stories about the distillation process and the traditions passed down through generations at Casa Tlalpuyec, emphasizing the artisanal methods that make Raicilla unique.

 

Listen to the full podcast on Spotify:

https://open.spotify.com/episode/77PG3ox9GLaI61oZYCjBqx?si=KT7vwDFHTsmlgpT-nGKM3A


In addition to the Raicilla, we also tasted an exquisite orange wine from Bodegas Henri Lurton, crafted from centenary vines in the Santo Tomás vineyard in Valle de Guadalupe. This Chenin Centenario 2015 is pressed on a Bucher Inertys pneumatic grape press under controlled atmosphere conditions to avoid oxidation, then fermented in new 500L French oak barrels. The result is a rich golden wine with an intense bouquet, showcasing flavors of honey, white truffle, quince, and hazelnut, all wrapped in a lacey, elegant finish. This wine is perfect for special occasions and added a sophisticated touch to the meal.

Unique Culinary Experiences

I also had the opportunity to savor crickets and cheese from Guelaguetza, distributors of authentic Oaxacan products. The combination of the crunchy crickets with the creamy cheese created a delightful textural contrast, embodying the spirit of traditional Mexican cuisine.

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If you're curious about the intricate relationship between Mexico's culinary traditions and its spirits, or if you want to learn more about the festival, check out OG's website and their social media platforms for updates and future events. You can find OG's online at OG's Tulum and follow them on Instagram @ogsrestaurant.

For a deeper dive into the 2024 Festival Gastronómico Del Mole, explore more details at La Revista Del Sureste.

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